International Journal of Cosmetic Science
0142-5463
1468-2494
Anh Quốc
Cơ quản chủ quản: Wiley-Blackwell Publishing Ltd , WILEY
Lĩnh vực:
Chemistry (miscellaneous)Drug DiscoveryPharmaceutical ScienceDermatologyColloid and Surface ChemistryAging
Các bài báo tiêu biểu
Lipid nanoparticles (SLN & NLC) for delivery of vitamin E: a comprehensive review Abstract The antioxidative and photoprotective properties of vitamin E have caused it to be included as an active agent in various pharmaceutical and cosmetic products. However, its lipophilicity, chemical instability and poor skin penetration have limited the effectiveness of these formulations. For that reason, many attempts to include it in different drug delivery systems have been made. In recent decades, lipid nanoparticles have received special attention due to their advantages of compatibility with the skin, ability to enhance penetration of drugs in the stratum corneum, protection of the encapsulated substance against degradation induced by the external medium and control of drug release. This work reviews the current status of the encapsulation of vitamin E in lipid nanoparticles. We describe the most important methods for obtaining and characterizing lipid nanoparticles containing vitamin E (LNP ‐VE ), various techniques for the evaluation of vitamin E's properties after encapsulation, the mainin vitro andin vivo studies of the potential effectiveness or toxicity ofLNP ‐VE , the formulations and stability studies of this delivery system, the commercial products based onLNP ‐VE and the regulatory aspects related to lipid nanoparticles. Finally, we discuss the most relevant advantages of encapsulating vitamin E in such particles and critical aspects that still demand attention to enhance the potential of solid lipid nanoparticles to deliver vitamin E.
Tập 40 Số 2 - Trang 103-116 - 2018
Comparison of extraction methods for chemical composition, antibacterial, depigmenting and antioxidant activities of <i>Eryngium maritimum</i> Abstract Objective The objective is to develop a natural cosmetic ingredient from Eryngium maritimum regarding the high interest of consumer in these ingredients for cosmetic use. Methods Five eco‐friendly techniques of extraction were applied to Eryngium maritimum aerial parts among conventional reflux extraction (with green solvent) and alternative techniques (supercritical fluid extraction (SFE), microwave‐assisted extraction (MAE), ultrasound‐assisted extraction (UAE) and ultrasound combined with microwave extraction (UAE + MAE)). Several criteria were evaluated to allow the optimal choice for an industrialized ingredient: yield of extraction, chemical composition and biological activities such as antimicrobial, antioxidant, anti‐collagenase and anti‐tyrosinase activities. The extracts were analysed by liquid chromatography mass spectrometry (LC‐HRMS), and the hierarchical Pearson classification (HCA) allowed to highlight the group of metabolites preferably extracted depending on the technique of extraction used. Results The biological results highlight that SFE and 80% ethanol reflux extracts have the best responses to biological activities such as antimicrobial, depigmenting and antioxidant activities, followed by water reflux extraction. Their activities might be due to the presence of different groups of metabolites favourably extracted by these techniques. Conclusion Among these extractions, water reflux extraction provided the optimal results considering the compromise between extraction yield and biological activities for the development of a cosmetic ingredient.
Tập 42 Số 2 - Trang 127-135 - 2020
The first cosmetic treatise of history. A female point of view Synopsis The Schola Medica Salernitana was an early medieval medical school in the south Italian city of Salerno and the most important native source of medical knowledge in Europe at the time. The school achieved its splendour between the 10th and 13th centuries, during the final decades of Longobard kingdom. In the school, women were involved as both teachers and students for medical learning. Among these women, there was Trotula de Ruggiero (11th century), a teacher whose main interest was to alleviate suffering of women. She was the author of many medical works, the most notable being De Passionibus Mulierum Curandarum (about women’s diseases), also known as Trotula Major . Another important work she wrote was De Ornatu Mulierum (about women’s cosmetics), also known as Trotula Minor , in which she teaches women to conserve and improve their beauty and treat skin diseases through a series of precepts, advices and natural remedies. She gives lessons about make‐up, suggests the way to be unwrinkled, remove puffiness from face and eyes, remove unwanted hair from the body, lighten the skin, hide blemishes and freckles, wash teeth and take away bad breath, dying hair, wax, treat lips and gums chaps.
Tập 30 Số 2 - Trang 79-86 - 2008
Preliminary safety assessment of C–8 xylitol monoester and xylitol phosphate esters Synopsis Objectives Most of the cosmetic compounds with preservative properties available in the market pose some risks concerning safety, such as the possibility of causing sensitization. Due to the fact that there are few options, the proper development of new molecules with this purpose is needed. Xylitol is a natural sugar, and the antimicrobial properties of xylitol‐derived compounds have already been described in the literature. C‐8 xylitol monoester and xylitol phosphate esters may be useful for the development of skincare products. As an initial screen for safety of chemicals, the combination of in silico methods and in vitro testing can aid in prioritizing resources in toxicological investigations while reducing the ethical and monetary costs that are related to animal and human testing. This study was designed to evaluate the safety of C‐8 xylitol monoester and xylitol phosphate esters regarding carcinogenicity, mutagenicity, skin and eye irritation/corrosion and sensitization through alternative methods. Methods For the initial safety assessment, quantitative structure‐activity relationship methodology was used. The prediction of the parameters carcinogenicity/mutagenicity, skin and eye irritation/corrosion and sensitization was generated from the chemical structure. The analysis also comprised physical–chemical properties, Cramer rules, threshold of toxicological concern and Michael reaction. In silico results of candidate molecules were compared to 19 compounds with preservative properties that are available in the market. Additionally, in vitro tests (Ames test for mutagenicity, cytotoxicity and phototoxicity tests and hen's egg test – chorioallantoic membrane for irritation) were performed to complement the evaluation. Results In silico evaluation of both molecules presented no structural alerts related to eye and skin irritation, corrosion and sensitization, but some alerts for micronucleus and carcinogenicity were detected. However, by comparison, C‐8 xylitol monoester, xylitol phosphate esters showed similar or better results than the compounds available in the market. Concerning experimental data, phototoxicity and mutagenicity results were negative. As expected for compounds with preservative activity, xylitol‐derived substances presented positive result in cytotoxicity test. In hen's egg test, both molecules were irritants.Conclusion Our results suggested that xylitol‐derived compounds appear to be suitable candidates for preservative systems in cosmetics.
Tập 38 Số 1 - Trang 41-51 - 2016
Evaluation of antimicrobial effectiveness of C-8 xylitol monoester as an alternative preservative for cosmetic products
Tập 33 Số 5 - Trang 391-397 - 2011
Gel network shampoo formulation and hair health benefits Abstract Objective The objective of this work was to create a shampoo formula that contains a stable ordered gel network structure that delivers fatty alcohols inside hair. Methods X‐ray diffraction (SAXS and WAXS ), SEM and DSC have been used to confirm formation of the ordered Lβ gel network with fatty alcohol (cetyl and stearyl alcohols) and an anionic surfactant (SLE 1S). Micro‐autoradiography and extraction methods using GC ‐MS were used to confirm penetration of fatty alcohols into hair, and cyclic fatigue testing was used to measure hair strength. Results In this work, evidence of a stable Lβ ordered gel network structure created from cetyl and stearyl alcohols and anionic surfactant (SLE 1S) is presented, and this is confirmed via scanning electron microscopy images showing lamella layers and differential scanning calorimetry (DSC ) showing new melting peaks vs the starting fatty alcohols. Hair washed for 16 repeat cycles with this shampoo showed penetration of fatty alcohols from the gel network into hair as confirmed by a differential extraction method with GC ‐MS and by radiolabelling of stearyl alcohol and showing its presence inside hair cross‐sections. The gel network role in delivering fatty alcohol inside hair is demonstrated by comparing with a shampoo with added fatty alcohol not in an ordered gel network structure. The hair containing fatty alcohol was measured via the Dia‐stron cyclic fatigue instrument and showed a significantly higher number of cycles to break vs control. Conclusions The formation of a stable gel network was confirmed in the formulated shampoo, and it was demonstrated that this gel network is important to deliver cetyl and stearyl alcohols into hair. The presence of fatty alcohol inside hair was shown to deliver a hair strength benefit via cyclic fatigue testing.
Tập 39 Số 5 - Trang 543-549 - 2017
Biological screening of 100 plant extracts for cosmetic use (II): anti‐oxidative activity and free radical scavenging activity Methanol aqueous extracts of 100 plants were screened for anti‐oxidative activity using Fenton's reagent/ethyl linoleate system and for free radical scavenging activity using the 1,1‐diphenyl‐2‐picryl hydrazyl free radical generating system. The results suggest that 14 plants ‐ Alpinia officinarum, Areca catechu, Brassica alba, Cannabis sativa, Curcuma longa, Curcuma aromatica, Eugenia caryophyllata, Evodia officinalis, Paeonia suffruticosa, Rhaphanus sativus, Rheum palmatum, Rhus verniciflua, Trapa bispinosa, Zanthoxylum piperitum ‐ may be potential sources of anti‐oxidants. Eight plants ‐ Citrus aurantium, Cornus officinalis, Gleditsia japonica, Lindera strychnifolia, Phragmites communis, Prunus mume, Schizandra chinensis, Terminalia chebula ‐ may be the potential source of free radical scavengers from natural plant. Nous avons crible l'activite anti‐oxydante de 100 extraits methanoliques aqueux de plantes en utilisant le systeme reactif de Fenton/linoleate, et leur activite de piege a radicaux libres en utilisant le systeme generateur de radicaux libres au 1,1‐diphenyl‐2‐picryl‐hydrazyle. Les resultats suggerent que 14 plantes ‐ Alpinia officinarum, Areca catechu, Brassica alba, Cannabis sativa, Curcuma longa, Curcuma aromatica, Eugenia caryophyllata, Evodia officinalis, Paeonia suffruticosa, Rhaphanus sativus, Rheum palmatum, Rhus verniciflua, Trapa bispinosa, Zanthoxylum piperitum ‐ peuvent etre des sources potentielles d'anti‐oxydants. Huit plantes ‐ Citrus aurantium, Cornus officinalis, Gleditsia japonica, Lindera strychnifolia, Phragmites communis, Prunus mume, Schizandra chinensis, Terminalia chebula ‐ peuvent etre la source potentielle de pieges a radicaux libres a partir de plantes naturelles.
Tập 19 Số 6 - Trang 299-307 - 1997
Application of microencapsulated essential oils in cosmetic and personal healthcare products – a review Synopsis Nowadays, the consumers around the world are increasingly focused on health and beauty. The renewed consumer interest in natural cosmetic products creates the demand for new products and reformulated others with botanical and functional ingredients. In cosmetic products, essential oils (EO s) play a major role as fragrance ingredients. They can optimize its proprieties and preservation, as well as the marketing image of the final product. Microencapsulation of EO s can protect and prevent the loss of volatile aromatic ingredients and improve the controlled release and stability of this core materials. The importance of EO s for cosmetic industry and its microencapsulation was reviewed in this study. Also a briefly introduction about the preparation of microparticles was presented. Some of the most important and usual microencapsulation techniques of EO s, as well as the conventional encapsulating agents, were discussed. Despite the fact that microencapsulation of EO s is a very promising and extremely attractive application area for cosmetic industry, further basic research needs to be carried out, for a better understanding of the biofunctional activities of microencapsulated EO s and its release modulation, as well as the effects of others cosmetic ingredients and the storage time in the microparticles properties.
Tập 38 Số 2 - Trang 109-119 - 2016
The effects of cosmetics on person perception Synopsis The study reported here forms part of an investigation of what psychological benefits, if any, exist for the user of cosmetics. A central theme in the work on physical attractiveness is that if one is physically attractive one is assumed to have a more ideal personality than someone of lesser attractiveness. If cosmetics really do make people look more physically attractive, then with the use of cosmetics others should perceive people more favourably in terms of personality characteristics. This study, therefore, attempted to find out whether cosmetics really do improve appearance ratings (by males and females) and in result improve ratings of personality. Colour photographs of four female stimulus persons of average physical attractiveness in each of four modes (neither make‐up nor hair care; make‐up but no hair care; no make‐up but hair care; both make‐up and hair care) were evaluated by a judge panel of sixteen males and sixteen females. The amount, extent and style of use of facial make‐up and hair care was no more than would be in everyday use. Each judge saw one stimulus person in each mode but no stimulus person in more than one mode in a counter‐balanced design, using 7‐point rating scales of six appearance and fourteen personality dimensions. Two hypotheses were confirmed:
The use of cosmetics (facial make‐up and hair care) leads to more favourable appearance ratings by others (both males and females). For make‐up there were more favourable ratings on all of the six appearance scales, and for hair care there were more favourable ratings on four of the six appearance scales. The use of cosmetics leads to more favourable ratings of personality as perceived by others (both males and females). Facial make‐up enhanced ratings on eight of the fourteen personality dimensions tested and hair treatment led to more favourable ratings on ten of the scales.
It is not certain from this study whether persons using cosmetics are rated more favourably than without cosmetics because they are seen as more physically attractive and in result acquire more favourable ratings for attributes which are associated with being physically attractive or whether there is a direct effect on perceived personality, independent of enhancement of physical attractiveness, or both. Either explanation is possible, though there is some support for the idea that the use of cosmetics (or at least hair care) may have a direct effect on perceived personality. If this were so, it would suggest the existence of a separate positive cosmetic stereotype which carries its own concept ‘what has been cared for is good’. This stereotype would form an extension of the ‘what is beautiful is good’ stereotype for physical attractiveness. Otherwise, and as a result of the work reported here, the latter might become ‘what has been made beautiful is good’, when cosmetics are used.
Tập 3 Số 5 - Trang 199-210 - 1981
Cosmetics considered in the context of physical attractiveness: a review Synopsis This review demonstrates the importance of outward appearance (especially of the face and head) in physical attractiveness and describes the methodology and results of objective experiments which assess interpersonal attraction, others' perceptions of the physically attractive and self‐perception. It shows that, although cosmetics have been used, inter alia , to manipulate physical attractiveness in some of these experiments, there are little data showing benefit of cosmetics per se to the individual. Consequently, the review is a first step in designing objective studies to test the hypothesis that cosmetics are of demonstrable benefit to the user. Les produits cosmetiques et l'attrait physique
Tập 2 Số 2 - Trang 77-101 - 1980