Calculation of wave characteristics and wave currents in the nearshore zone of the sea

Springer Science and Business Media LLC - Tập 22 - Trang 214-220 - 1988
O. L. Rybak, V. A. Petrov

Tài liệu tham khảo

Guide to Calculation of Wind Wave Parameters [in Russian], Gidrometeoizdat, Leningrad (1969). B. Le Mehaute, “On nonsaturated breakers. A. The wave run-up,” in: Proceedings of the Eighth Conference on Coastal Engineering (1962), pp. 77–93. W. Munk and M. Wimbush, “A simple criterion of wave breaking on a shore slope,” Okeanologiya,9, No. 1, 71–75 (1969). Recommendations on Calculation of Artificial Free Sand Beaches [in Russian], TsNIIS, Moscow (1982). I. H. Balsille, “Redefinition of shore-breaker classification as a numerical continuum and a design of a shore-breaker,” J. Coast. Res.,1, No. 3, 247–254 (1985). P. D. Komar and M. K. Gaughan, “Airy wave theory and breaker height prediction,” in: Thirteenth Coastal Engineering Conference, July 10–14, 1972, Vancouver, B. C., Canada, Vol. 1, pp. 405–418. O. S. Madson and W. Grant, “Sediment transport in the coastal environment,” in: MIT Ralphin Parsons Laboratory of Water Resources and Hydrodynamics, Report,13, No. 209, 1–200 (1976). M. S. Longuet-Higgens and R. Stewart, “Radiation stress in water waves. A physical discussion with application, “ Deep-Sea Res.,2, 529 (1964). B. Le Mehaute and R. Koh, “On the breaking of waves arriving at an angle to the shoreline,” J. Hydraulic Res.,5, No. 1, 67–88 (1967). V. A. Petrov, “Length of wave run-up on a pebble beach,” in: On-Site and Experimental Investigations in the Area of Marine Coastal Protection [in Russian], Moscow (1984), pp. 102–108. V. V. Longinov, Dynamics of the Coastal Zone of Tideless Sea [in Russian], Izd. Akad. Nauk SSSR, Moscow (1963). I. Leont'ev, V. Kirlis, N. Speranskii, L. Stoyanov, and B. Shichkus, “Horizontal wave velocities in the zone of strongly deformed waves,” in: Interaction of Atmosphere, Hydrosphere, and Lithosphere in the Nearshore Zone of the Sea (Results of the “Kamchiya-77” Experiment) [in Russian], Bulg. Akad. Nauk, Sofia (1980), pp. 193–199. I. O. Leont'ev, “Calculation of bottom wave velocities in the coastal zone of the sea,” Okeanologiya,21, No. 5, 873–878 (1981). V. B. Shtokman, Selected Works on Physics of the Sea [in Russian], Gidrometeoizdat, Leningrad (1970). N. E. Huang, “Mass transport induced by wave motion,” J. Marine Res.,28, No. 1 (1970). M. S. Longuet-Higgens, “Mass transport in water waves,” Philos. Trans. R. Soc., Ser. A,245, No. 903 (1953). A. A. Dmitriev and T. V. Bonchkovskaya, “Some observations on models of motions occurring during frontal impact of a wave on a slope,” Tr. Morsk. Gidrofiz. Inst. Akad. Nauk SSSR, No. 4 (1954). I. O. Leont'ev, “compensation of wave setup in the coastal zone of the sea,” Okeanologiya,14, No. 4, 630–635 (1974). M. S. Longuet-Higgens, “Longshore currents generated by obliquely incident sea waves,” J. Geophys. Res.,75, No. 33, 6778–6789 and 6790–6801 (1970). I. van de Graaf and I. van Overeem, “Evaluation of sediment transport formulae in coastal engineering practice,” Coastal Eng.,3, No. 1, 1–32 (1979). H. Schlichting, Boundary Layer Theory, McGraw-Hill (1968). O. V. Voitsekhovich and E. S. Tsaitts, “Analysis of methods of calculating longshore current velocities,” Vodn. Resur., No. 3, 34–40 (1985).