Wave-Induced Sediment Transport and Sandbar Migration

American Association for the Advancement of Science (AAAS) - Tập 299 Số 5614 - Trang 1885-1887 - 2003
Fernanda Gemael Hoefel1, Steve Elgar2
1Massachusetts Institute of Technology/Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution (WHOI) Joint Program in Oceanography, WHOI, Mail Stop 09, Woods Hole, MA 02543, USA.
2WHOI, Mail Stop 11, Woods Hole, MA 02543, USA. E-mail: [email protected], [email protected]

Tóm tắt

Onshore sediment transport and sandbar migration are important to the morphological evolution of beaches but are not well understood. Here, a model that accounts for fluid accelerations in waves predicts the onshore sandbar migration observed on an ocean beach. In both the observations and the model, the location of the maximum acceleration-induced transport moves shoreward with the sandbar, resulting in feedback between waves and morphology that drives the bar shoreward until conditions change. A model that combines the effects of transport by waves and mean currents simulated both onshore and offshore bar migration observed over a 45-day period.

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Tài liệu tham khảo

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Support was provided by the Army Research Office the Office of Naval Research NSF and a fellowship from Conselho Nacional de Desenvolvimento Cientı́fico e Tecnológico (CNPq) Brazil. E. Gallagher R. Guza T. Herbers and B. Raubenheimer made valuable comments and helped obtain the field observations. The staff of the Field Research Facility and the Center for Coastal Studies provided excellent logistical support during arduous field conditions.

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American Association for the Advancement of Science (AAAS)

Tập 299 Số 5614

1885-1887

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