Types of Hair Dye and Their Mechanisms of Action

Cosmetics - Tập 2 Số 2 - Trang 110-126
Simone França1, Michelli Ferrera Dario1, Victoria Esteves1, André Rolim Baby1, Maria Valéria Robles Velasco1
1School of Pharmaceutical Sciences, University of São Paulo, 05508-000 São Paulo, Brazil

Tóm tắt

Hair color change by dye application is a common procedure among women. Hair dyes are classified, according to color resistance, into temporary, semipermanent, demipermanent and permanent. The first two are based on molecules which are already colored. Temporary dyes act through dye deposition on cuticles, but semipermanent may penetrate a little into the cortex and so the color resists up to six washes. Demipermanent and permanent dyes are based on color precursors, called oxidation dyes, and the final shade is developed by their interactions with an oxidizing agent, but they differ from the alkalizing agent used. In oxidation systems, there is an intense diffusion of the molecules into the cortex, what promotes a longer color resistance. Dyes and color precursors present differences related to chromophore groups, hair fiber affinity, water solubility, and photo stability. The aim of this review is to discuss the differences among hair dye products available in the market and their action mechanisms, molecular structures, application methods, and some aspects of formulations.

Từ khóa


Tài liệu tham khảo

Harrison, 2004, Hair coloring, permanent styling and hair structure, J. Cosmet. Dermatol., 2, 180, 10.1111/j.1473-2130.2004.00064.x

Ahn, 2002, An ultrastuctural study of hair fiber damage and restoration following treatment with permanent hair dye, Int. J. Dermatol., 2, 88, 10.1046/j.1365-4362.2002.01375.x

Sherrow, V. (2006). Encyclopedia of Hair: A Cultural History, Greenwood Press.

ABIHPEC—Associação Brasileira das Indústrias de Higiene, Perfumaria e Cosméticos Anuário 2012. (In Portuguese).

Johnson, D.H. (1977). Hair and Hair Care, Marcel Dekker.

Robbins, 1991, Cuticule damage and the tensile properties of human hair, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 42, 59

Morel, 2011, Current trends in the chemistry of permanent hair dyeing, Chem. Rev., 111, 2537, 10.1021/cr1000145

Bouillon, C., and Wilkinson, J.D. (2005). The Science of Hair Care, Taylor & Francis.

Rogers, 2004, Hair follicle differentiation and regulation, Int. J. Dev. Biol., 48, 163, 10.1387/ijdb.15272381

Wilkinson, J.B., and Moore, R.J. (1990). Cosmetologia de Harry, Ediciones Diaz de Santos. (In Spanish).

Wagner, 2007, Electron microscopic observations of humam hair medulla, J. Microsc., 226, 54, 10.1111/j.1365-2818.2007.01747.x

Sadaie, 2006, Studies of human hair by friction force microscopy with the hair-model-probe, Colloid Surf. B, 51, 120, 10.1016/j.colsurfb.2006.06.004

Draelos, 2010, Essentials of hair care often neglected: Hair cleansing, Int. J. Trichology, 2, 24, 10.4103/0974-7753.66909

Smith, 2002, Lamellar subcomponents of the cuticular cell membrane complex of mammalian keratin fibres show friction and hardness contrast by AFM, J. Microsc., 206, 182, 10.1046/j.1365-2818.2002.01028.x

Halal, J. (2009). Hair Structure and Chemistry Simplified, Milady Publishing Company. [5th ed.].

Chandrashekara, 2010, Chemical and photochemical degradation of human hair: A free-volume microprobe study, J. Photochem. Photobiol. B, 101, 286, 10.1016/j.jphotobiol.2010.07.014

Robbins, C.R. (2012). Chemical and Physical Behavior of Human Hair, Springer. [5th ed.].

Briki, 2000, Exploring a biological tissue from atomic to macroscopic scale using synchrotron radiation: Example of hair, Cell. Mol. Biol., 46, 1005

Boga, 2013, Investigation on the dyeing power of some organic natural compounds for a green approach to hair dyeing, Dyes Pigment., 97, 9, 10.1016/j.dyepig.2012.11.020

Barel, A.O., Paye, M., and Maibach, H.I. (2001). Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology, Marcel Dekker.

Draelos, 1991, Hair cosmetics, Dermatol. Clin., 9, 19, 10.1016/S0733-8635(18)30429-7

Ghosh, 2008, Hair colors: Classification, chemistry and a review of chromatographic and electrophoretic methods for analysis, Anal. Lett., 41, 2291, 10.1080/00032710802352605

Wenninger, J.A., Canterbery, R.C., and Mcewen, G.N.J. (2000). International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association. [8th ed.].

Les Colorants Wackherr (LCW) (2008). Apresentação Técnica Sobre Tinturas Capilares, LCW. (In Portuguese).

Johnson, D.H. (1997). Hair and Hair Care, Marcel Dekker.

Wong, 1972, The kinetics of dye rinse from bleached hair, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 23, 165

Ballarin, 2007, Study of dyeing properties of semipermanent dyestuffs for hair, Int. J. Cosmet. Sci., 29, 49, 10.1111/j.1467-2494.2007.00359.x

Morel, 2008, Enhanced model for the diffusivity of a dye molecule into human hair fibre based on molecular modelling techniques, Color. Technol., 124, 301, 10.1111/j.1478-4408.2008.00157.x

Oliveira, 2014, A química e toxicidade dos corantes de cabelo, Quim. Nova, 37, 1037

Bolduc, 2001, Hair care products: Waving, straightening, conditioning and coloring, Clin. Dermatol., 19, 431, 10.1016/S0738-081X(01)00201-2

Kojima, 2013, Dyeing regions of oxidative hair dyes in human hair investigated by nanoscale secondary ion mass spectrometry, Colloid Surf. B, 106, 140, 10.1016/j.colsurfb.2013.01.028

Hudari, 2014, Voltammetric sensor for simultaneous determination of p-phenylenediamine and resorcinol in permanent hair dyeing and tap water by composite carbon nanotubes/chitosan modified electrode, Microchem. J., 116, 261, 10.1016/j.microc.2014.05.007

Altman, 1967, The function of Bandrowski’s base in hair dyeing, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 19, 141

Tucker, 1967, Hair coloring with oxidation dye intermediate, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 18, 609

Wilmsmann, 1961, Beziehungen zwischen der Molekfilgrösse aromafischer verbindungen und ihrem Penetrations-vermögen für das menschliche Haar, J. Cosmet. Sci., 12, 490