Thay đổi các trường phái trong thời trang: từ tổng thể đến toàn cầu đến trải nghiệm người tiêu dùng thông minh

Fashion and Textiles - Tập 1 - Trang 1-16 - 2014
HaeJung Kim1, Soo-Kyoung Ahn1, Judith A Forney1
1College of Merchandising, Hospitality & Tourism, University of North Texas, Denton, USA

Tóm tắt

Sự xuất hiện của một hệ thống kinh tế công nghệ toàn cầu đang gây thách thức cho cả học thuật và ngành công nghiệp thời trang. Người tiêu dùng, ngành bán lẻ và các chiến lược kinh doanh đang đóng góp một cách chiến lược vào sự thay đổi của mô hình thời trang, điều này đang chuyển biến từ Tổng thể (TCE) sang Toàn cầu (GCE) và sang Khái niệm Trải nghiệm Người tiêu dùng Thông minh (SCE). Trải nghiệm của người tiêu dùng là một định hướng giá trị phổ biến đang biến đổi cách thức mà người tiêu dùng suy nghĩ, thu thập thông tin và đưa ra quyết định về các hoạt động tiêu dùng nhằm tối đa hóa giá trị tổng thể của trải nghiệm của họ. Hơn nữa, những trải nghiệm, sản phẩm và dịch vụ mà người tiêu dùng tìm kiếm đang được định nghĩa với một góc nhìn toàn cầu và thông minh, điều này trở nên khả thi nhờ vào việc truy cập thông tin và tìm nguồn cung cấp sản phẩm và dịch vụ không có ranh giới. Cụ thể, trải nghiệm người tiêu dùng thông minh khuyến khích sự tham gia của người tiêu dùng bằng cách tận dụng sức mạnh của các cộng đồng và mạng lưới, và cho phép người tiêu dùng ảnh hưởng đến các doanh nghiệp bán lẻ và cùng nhau tạo ra giá trị cho không gian thị trường tương lai. Hiện tượng này có những tác động đến người tiêu dùng thời trang và các chiến lược kinh doanh của ngành bán lẻ thời trang, vì thời trang là hành vi được bắt chước.

Từ khóa

#Hệ thống kinh tế công nghệ toàn cầu #trải nghiệm người tiêu dùng thông minh #ngành công nghiệp thời trang #chiến lược kinh doanh #người tiêu dùng.

Tài liệu tham khảo

ABI Research. (2013). 45 million windows phone and 20 million blackberry 10 smartphones in active use at year-end; enough to keep developers interested. Retrieved December 17, 2013 from ., [https://www.abiresearch.com/press/45-million-windows-phone-and-20-million-blackberry] Aaker J, Smith A: The dragonfly effect: Quick, effective, and powerful ways to use social media to drive social change. 2010, John Wiley & Sons, San Francisco, CA Andrews D: Audience-specific online community design. Communications of the ACM. 2002, 45 (4): 64-68. 10.1145/505248.505275. Arnould EJ, Thompson CJ: Consumer culture theory (CCT): Twenty years of research. Journal of Consumer Research. 2005, 31 (4): 868-882. 10.1086/426626. Bagozzi RP: On the Concept of Intentional Social Action in Consumer Behavior. Journal of Consumer Research. 2000, 27 (3): 388-396. 10.1086/317593. Berry LL, Carbone L: Build loyalty through experience management. Quality Progress. 2007, 40 (9): 26-32. Berry LL, Carbone LP, Haeckel SH: Managing the total customer experience. MIT Sloan Management Review. 2002, 43 (3): 85-89. Belk RW: Possessions and the extended self. Journal of Consumer Research. 1988, 15 (2): 139-168. 10.1086/209154. Belk RW, Sherry JF, Wallendorf M: A naturalistic inquiry into buyer and seller behavior at a swap meet. Journal of Consumer Research. 1988, 14 (4): 449-470. 10.1086/209128. Binkley, C. (2013). More brands want you to model their clothes. The Wall Street Journal. Retrieved from ., [http://online.wsj.com/news/articles/SB10001424127887324216004578483094260521704] Blanchard A, Horan T: Virtual communities and social capital. Social Science Computer Review. 1998, 16 (3): 293-307. 10.1177/089443939801600306. Bock GW, Zmud RW, Kim YG, Lee JN: Behavioral intention formation in knowledge sharing: examining the roles of extrinsic motivators, social- psychological forces, and organizational climate. MIS Quarterly. 2005, 29 (1): 87-111. Brown JR, Dant RP, Ingene CA, Kaufmann PJ: Supply chain management and the evolution of the “Big Middle”. Journal of Retailing. 2005, 81 (2): 97-105. 10.1016/j.jretai.2005.03.002. Burnett, G. (2000). Information exchange in virtual communities: A typology. Information Research, 5(4), ᅟ. Retrieved from ., [http://informationr.net/ir/5-4/paper82] Chang H, Chuang S: Social capital and individual motivations on knowledge sharing: Participant involvement as a moderator. Information & Management. 2011, 48 (1): 9-18. 10.1016/j.im.2010.11.001. Chiu C, Hsu M, Wang ET: Understanding knowledge sharing in virtual communities: An integration of social capital and social cognitive theories. Decision Support Systems. 2006, 42: 1872-1888. 10.1016/j.dss.2006.04.001. Cholachatpinyo A, Padgett I, Crocker M: A conceptual model of the fashion process-part 1: the fashion transformation process model. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management. 2002, 6 (1): 11-23. 10.1108/13612020210422428. Clarke N: Emotional intelligence and its relationship to transformational leadership and key project manager competences. Project Management Journal. 2010, 41 (2): 5-20. 10.1002/pmj.20162. Coulter RA, Price LL, Feick L: The origins of involvement and brand commitment: Insights from postsocialist central Europe. Journal of Consumer Research. 2003, 30 (2): 170-183. 10.1086/376809. Cowan, K. (2012). Changing the face of retail: Where fashion meets technology. In The Guardian. Retrieved from ., [http://www.theguardian.com/media-network/media-network-blog/2012/may/16/retail-technology-decoded-fashion-2012] Csikszentmihalyi M: Flow: The psychology of optimal experience. 1990, Harper and Row, New York Csikszentmihalyi M: Finding flow: The psychology of engagement with everyday life. 1997, Basic Books, New York Davis, D. (2013). A $1.2 trillion global payday for e-commerce. Retrieved February 25, 2014 from ., [http://www.internetretailer.com/2013/06/27/12-trillion-global-payday-e-commerce] Dholakia UM, Bagozzi RP, Pearo LRK: A social influence model of consumer participation in network- and small-group-based virtual communities. International Journal of Research in Marketing. 2004, 21 (3): 241-263. 10.1016/j.ijresmar.2003.12.004. Douglas SP, Craig CS: The changing dynamic of consumer behavior: Implications for cross-cultural research. International Journal of Research in Marketing. 1997, 14 (4): 379-395. 10.1016/S0167-8116(97)00026-8. Emarketer.com. (2014). Smartphone user worldwide will total 1.75 billion in 2104. Retrieved February 24, 2014 from ., [http://www.emarketer.com/articles/print.aspx?r=1010536] Escalas JE, Stern BB: Sympathy and empathy: Emotional responses toadvertising. Journal of Consumer Research. 2003, 29 (4): 566-578. 10.1086/346251. Evans M: Consumer behavior towards fashion. European Journal of Marketing. 1989, 23 (7): 7-16. 10.1108/EUM0000000000575. Fair Trade USA. (2011). Fair trade just a click away with new “Fair Trade Finder” app. Retrieved February 25, 2014 from ., [http://fairtradeusa.org/blog/fair-trade-just-click-away-new-fair-trade-finder-app] FierceRetail. (2013). Marks & Spencer returns to Amsterdam with tiny Omnichannel Concept Store. Retrieved December 20, 2013 from ., [http://www.fierceretail.com/story/marks-spencer-returns-amsterdam-tiny-omnichannel-concept-store/2013-07-24#ixzz2o5uL0jRY] Firat AF, Dholakia N: Theoretical and philosophical implications of postmodern debates: Some challenges to modern marketing. Marketing Theory. 2006, 6 (2): 123-162. 10.1177/1470593106063981. Fournier S: Consumers and their brands: Developing relationship theory in consumer research. Journal of Consumer Research. 1998, 24 (4): 343-373. 10.1086/209515. Fournier S, Mick DS: Rediscovering satisfaction. Journal of Marketing. 1999, 63: 5-23. 10.2307/1251971. Globerman ST, Roel TW, Standiford S: Globalization and electronic commerce. Journal of International Business Studies. 2001, 32 (4): 749-769. 10.1057/palgrave.jibs.8490993. Gooderham P, Minbaeva D, Pedersen T: Governance mechanisms for the promotion of social capital for knowledge transfer in multinational corporations. Journal of Management Studies. 2010, 48 (1): 123-150. 10.1111/j.1467-6486.2009.00910.x. Grayson K, Martinec R: Consumer perceptions of iconicity and indexicality and their influence on assessments of authentic market offerings. Journal of Consumer Research. 2004, 31 (2): 296-313. 10.1086/422109. Hirschman EC, Holbrook MB: Hedonic consumption: Emerging concepts,methods, and propositions. Journal of Marketing. 1982a, 46 (2): 92-101. 10.2307/1251707. Hirschman EC, Holbrook MB: The experiential aspects of consumption: consumer fantasies, feelings, and fun. Journal of Consumer Research. 1982b, 9 (2): 132-140. 10.1086/208906. Holbrook MB: What is consumer research?. Journal of Consumer Research. 1987, 14 (1): 128-132. 10.1086/209099. Holman RH: Clothing as communication: an empirical investigation. Advances in Consumer Research. 1980, 7 (1): 372-377. Holt DB: Poststructuralist lifestyle analysis: Conceptualizing the social patterning of consumption in postmodernity. Journal of Consumer Research. 1997, 23 (4): 326-350. 10.1086/209487. Holt DB: Why do brands cause trouble? A dialectical theory of consumer culture and branding. Journal of Consumer Research. 2002, 29 (1): 70-90. 10.1086/339922. Holt DB, Quelch JA, Taylor EL: How global brands compete. Harvard Business Review. 2004, 82 (9): 68-75. Huang R, Kim HJ, Kim JY: Social capital in QQ China: Impacts on virtual engagement of information seeking, interaction sharing, knowledge creating and purchasing intention. Journal of Marketing Management. 2013, 29 (3–4): 292-316. 10.1080/0267257X.2013.766630. ICT. (2013). The World in 2013 ICT Fact and Figures. ᅟ, ᅟ, ᅟ. Retrieved December 17, 2013 from ., [http://www.itu.int/en/ITU-D/Statistics/Documents/facts/ICTFactsFigures2013-e.pdf] Javed, N. (2009). Meltdown creates new global champions. AH&LA SmartBrief. Retrieved February 12, 2009 from ., [http://www.4hoteliers.com/features/article/3759] Karpen IO, Bove LL, Lukas BA: Linking service-dominant logic and strategic business practice: A conceptual model of service-dominant orientation. Journal of Service Research. 2012, 15 (1): 21-38. 10.1177/1094670511425697. Kearsley G, Shneiderman B: Engagement theory: A framework for technology based technology-based teaching and learning. Educational Technology. 1998, 38 (5): 20-23. Kim HJ: Fashion-brand experience: Aligning brand equity approaches. Journal of Fashion Marketing & Management. 2012, 16 (4): 418-441. 10.1108/13612021211265827. Kim HJ, Kim JY, Huang R: Social capital in virtual community: Impacts on the social shopping model for QQ China. Global Economic Review. 2014, 43 (4): 3-24. 10.1080/1226508X.2014.884046. Kim Y, Sullivan P, Forney JC: Experiential Retailing. 2007, Fairchild Publications, Inc., New York, NY Kozinets RV: Utopian enterprise: Articulating the meaning of Star Trek’s culture of consumption. Journal of Consumer Research. 2001, 28 (1): 67-89. 10.1086/321948. Kozinets RV: Can consumers escape the market? Emancipatory illuminations fromBurning Man. Journal of Consumer Research. 2002, 29 (1): 20-38. 10.1086/339919. Kozinets R, Sherry JF, Storm D, Duhachek A, Nuttavuthisit K, Deberry-Spence B: Ludic agency and retail spectacle. Journal of Consumer Research. 2004, 31: 658-672. 10.1086/425101. Kuhn T: The Structure of Scientific Revolutions. 1962, University of Chicago Press, Chicago Langerak F, Verhoef PC, Verlegh PWJ, de Valck K: Satisfaction and participation in virtual communities. Advances in Consumer Research. 2004, 31: 56-57. Lee I, Lee K: Social shopping promotions from a social merchant’s perspective. Business Horizons. 2012, 55 (5): 441-451. 10.1016/j.bushor.2012.04.001. Levy M, Grewal D, Peterson RA, Connolly B: The concept of the “Big Middle”. Journal of Retailing. 2005, 81 (2): 83-88. 10.1016/j.jretai.2005.04.001. Lewis, R. (2014). In search of the future. retrieved January 7, 2014 from ., [http://therobinreport.com/in-search-of-the-future/] Lucas C: Out at the edge: Notes on a paradigm shift. Journal of Counseling and Development. 1985, 64 (November): 165-172. 10.1002/j.1556-6676.1985.tb01063.x. Mascarenhas OA, Kesavan R, Bernacchi M: Lasting customer loyalty: a total customer experience approach. Journal of Consumer Marketing. 2006, 23 (7): 397-405. 10.1108/07363760610712939. Meyer C, Schwager A: Understanding customer experience. Harvard Business Review. 2007, 85 (2): 116-126. McAlexander JH, Schouten JW, Koenig H: Building brand community. Journal ofMarketing. 2002, 66 (1): 38-54. 10.1509/jmkg.66.1.38.18451. McCracken G: Culture and consumption: A theoretical account of the structureand movement of the cultural meaning of consumer goods. Journal of ConsumerResearch. 1986, 13 (1): 71-84. Mick DG: Consumer research and semiotics: Exploring the morphology ofsigns, symbols, and significance. Journal of Consumer Research. 1986, 13: 196-213. 10.1086/209060. Mick DG, Buhl C: A meaning-based model of advertising experiences. Journal of Consumer Research. 1992, 19 (3): 317-338. 10.1086/209305. Miller CM, McIntyre SH, Mantrala MK: Toward formalizing fashion theory.Journal of. Marketing Research. 1993, 30 (2): 142-158. 10.2307/3172824. Morning News USA. (2013). Apple Inc. Rolls Out Location-Based Technology iBeacon in Its Retail Stores. Retrieved December 20, 2013 from ., [http://www.morningnewsusa.com/apple-inc-rolls-out-location-based-technology-ibeacon-in-its-retail-stores-237177.html] Mollen A, Wilson H: Engagement, telepresence and interactivity in online consumer experience: Reconciling scholastic and managerial perspectives. Journal of Business Research. 2010, 63 (9–10): 919-925. 10.1016/j.jbusres.2009.05.014. Mooney K, Rollins N: The open brand. 2008, AIGA Design Press, Berkley Muñiz A, O’Guinn TC: Brand communities. Journal of Consumer Research. 2000, 27 (4): 412-432. 10.1086/319618. Muñiz A, Schau HJ: Religiosity in the abandoned Apple Newton brand community. Journal of Consumer Research. 2005, 31 (4): 737-747. 10.1086/426607. Nitto, H, & Shiozaki, J. (2001). Changing consumption patterns and new lifestyles in the 21stcentury. NRI Papers, No. 24. Nomura Research Institute. Retrieved May 28, 2009 from ., [http://www.nri.co.jp/english/opinion/papers/2001/pdf/np200124.pdf] O’Cass A, McEwen H: Exploring consumer status and conspicuousconsumption. Journal of Consumer Behaviour. 2004, 4 (1): 25-39. 10.1002/cb.155. Oliver RL, Rust RT, Varki S: Customer delight: Foundations, findings, and managerial insight. Journal of Retailing. 1997, 73: 311-336. 10.1016/S0022-4359(97)90021-X. Peñaloza L: The commodification of the American West: Marketers’ production of cultural meanings at a trade show. Journal of Marketing. 2000, 64 (4): 82-109. 10.1509/jmkg.64.4.82.18073. Peñaloza L: Consuming the American West: Animating cultural meaning at a stock show and rodeo. Journal of Consumer Research. 2001, 28 (3): 369-398. 10.1086/323728. Pew Research Center. (2013). Mobile technology fact sheet. ᅟ, ᅟ. Retrieved February 25, 2014 from ., [http://www.pewinternet.org/fact-sheets/mobile-technology-fact-sheet] Pine BJ, Gilmore JH: The experience economy. 1999, The Harvard Business School Press, Cambridge, MA Pine BJ, Gilmore JH: The experience economy. Health Forum Journal. 2001, 44 (5): 10-16. Putnam R: Bowling alone: America’s declining social capital. Journal of Democracy. 1995, 6 (1): 65-78. 10.1353/jod.1995.0002. Ramarapu S, Timmerman JE, Ramarapu N: Choosing between globalization andlocalization as a strategic thrust for your international marketing effort. Journal of Marketing Theory and Practice. 1999, 7 (2): 97-105. Rayport, JF, & Sviokla, JJ. (1994). Managing in the Marketspace. ., [http://hbr.org/1994/11/managing-in-the-marketspace/ar/pr] Ritson M, Elliott R: Thesocial uses of advertising: An ethnographic study ofadolescent advertisingaudiences. Journal of Consumer Research. 1999, 26 (3): 260-277. 10.1086/209562. Ritzer G, Jurgenson N: Production, consumption, prosumption: The nature of capitalism in the age of the digital ‘prosumer’. Journal of Consumer Culture. 2010, 10 (1): 13-36. 10.1177/1469540509354673. Rogers EM: Diffusion of Innovations. 1983, The Free Press, New York Scott L: The bridge from text to mind: Adapting reader-response theory to consumer research. Journal of Consumer Research. 1994, 21 (3): 461-480. 10.1086/209411. Sismeiro C, Bucklin RE: Modeling purchase behavior at an e-commerce web site: a task completion approach. Journal of Marketing Research. 2004, 41 (3): 306-323. 10.1509/jmkr.41.3.306.35985. Solomon MR: The role of products as social stimuli: a symbolic interactionismperspective”. Journal of Consumer Research. 1983, 10 (3): 319-329. 10.1086/208971. Statista.com. (2014). Worldwide social commerce revenue from 2011 to 2015 (in billion U.S. dollars). Retrieved February 27, 2014 from ., [http://www.statista.com/statistics/251391/worldwide-social-commerce-revenue-forecast/] Teo HH, Oh LB, Liu C, Wei KK: An empirical study of the effect of interactivity on web user attitude. International Journal of Human-Computer Studies. 2003, 58 (3): 281-305. 10.1016/S1071-5819(03)00008-9. The Guardian. (2013). Omni-channel retail: joining up the consumer experience. Retrieved 20 December, 2013 from ., [http://www.theguardian.com/media-network/media-network-blog/2013/jul/22/omni-channel-retail-consumer-experience] Thompson CJ: Caring consumers: Gendered consumption meanings and the juggling lifestyle. Journal of Consumer Research. 1996, 22 (4): 388-407. 10.1086/209457. Valenzuela S, Park N, Kee KF: Is there social capital in a social network site?: Facebook use and college students’ life satisfaction, trust and participation. Journal of Computer-Mediated Communication. 2009, 14 (4): 875-901. 10.1111/j.1083-6101.2009.01474.x. Vargo S, Lusch R: Service-Dominant logic: Continuing the evolution. Journal of the Academy of Marketing Science. 2008, 36 (1): 1-10. 10.1007/s11747-007-0069-6. Vargo S, Lusch R: Service-Dominant Logic: What It Is, What It Is Not, What It Might Be. The Service-Dominant Logic of Marketing: Dialog, Debate, and Directions. Edited by: Lusch RF, Vargo SL. 2006, M. E. Sharpe, Armonk, NY, 43-57. Vargo S, Lusch R: Evolving to a new dominant logic for marketing. Journal of Marketing. 2004, 68 (1): 1-17. 10.1509/jmkg.68.1.1.24036. Vehoef PC, Lemon KN, Parasuraman A, Roggeveen A, Tsiros M, Schlesinger LA: Customer experience creation: Determinants, Dynamics and management strategies. Journal of Retailing. 2009, 85 (1): 31-41. 10.1016/j.jretai.2008.11.001. Wang Y, Yu Q, Fesenmaier D: Defining the virtual tourist community: implications for tourism marketing. Tourism Management. 2002, 23 (4): 407-417. 10.1016/S0261-5177(01)00093-0. Wasko MM, Faraj S: Why should I share? Examining knowledge contribution in electronic networks of practice. MIS Quarterly. 2005, 29 (1): 1-23. Wellman B, Salaff J, Dimitrova D, Garton L, Gulia M, Haythornthwaite C: Computer networks as social networks: Collaborative work, telework, and virtual community. Annual Review of Sociology. 1996, 22 (1): 213-238. 10.1146/annurev.soc.22.1.213. Williamson K: Discovered by chance: The role of incidental information acquisition in an ecological model of information use. Library & Information Science Research. 1998, 20 (1): 23-40. 10.1016/S0740-8188(98)90004-4. ZAOZAO.com. (2013). Retrieved December 21, 2013 from ., [http://www.shopzaozao.com/about] Zhang, Y, & Hiltz, SR. (2003). Factors that influence online relationship development in a knowledge sharing community. Proceedings of the Ninth American Conference on Information Systems, 410–417. Zite.com. (2013). Retrieved December 20, 2013 from ., [http://www.zite.com/] Zwick D, Bonsu SK, Darmody A: Putting consumers to work: “Co-creation” and new marketing govern-mentality. Journal of Consumer Culture. 2008, 8 (2): 163-196. 10.1177/1469540508090089.