RESEARCH ON THE INFLUENCE OF SOME TECHNOLOGICAL PARAMETERS ON THE QUALITY INDICATORS OF SHIRTS' BUTTONLINESS

The shape of the buttonhole pattern, the degree of fabric drift, and the wrinkling around the buttonhole are important indicators reflecting the quality of shirt buttonholes. In actual production, technological parameters such as machine speed and thread tension directly affect these quality indicators; however, the specific extent of their influence on each type of fabric has not been clearly determined. This paper presents the results of an experimental study to evaluate the influence of machine speed and thread tension on a Juki LBH 1790S electronic buttonhole sewing machine on the pattern shape, fabric drift, and wrinkling of shirt buttonholes. The study was designed using an experimental model with 27 buttonhole patterns on three types of commercial fabrics (100% cotton, PE/Co 65/35, and 100% PES). Machine speed and thread tension were determined by setting parameters displayed on the buttonhole sewing machine’s screen, measured in revolutions per minute (rpm) and gf. The research results showed that machine speed and thread tension significantly affected the quality indicators of the buttonhole pattern. Based on the analysis of experimental results, the study identified suitable technological parameters for each fabric type, selecting two cotton fabric samples, three PE/Co fabric samples, and one PES fabric sample with the best buttonhole quality based on three evaluation criteria: shape, yarn drift, and fabric wrinkling.