On the use of linear stability model to characterize the morphological behaviour of a double bar system. Application to Truc Vert beach (France)

Almar, 2010, Two- and three-dimensional double-sandbar system behaviour under intense wave forcing and a meso-macro tidal range, Continental Shelf Res., 30, 781, 10.1016/j.csr.2010.02.001 Battjes, J.A., 1975. Modelling of turbulence in the surfzone, paper presented at Symposium on Modelling techniques: Second Annual Symposium of the Waterways, Harbors, and Coastal Engineering Division of ASCE, Am. Soc. Civ. Eng., San Francisco, California. Bonneton, 2010, Large-scale vorticity generation due to dissipating waves in the surf zone, Discrete and Continuous Dynamical Systems-Serie B, 13, 729, 10.3934/dcdsb.2010.13.729 Booij, N., Haagsma, I.J.G., Holthuijsen, L.H., Kieftenburg, A.T.M.M., Ris, R.C., van der Westuysen, A.J., Zijlema, M., 2004. Swan Cycle III version 40.41. User's Manual, 115 p. Butel, 2002, Spatial variability of wave conditions on the French Atlantic Coast using in situ data, J. Coastal Res. SI, 36, 96, 10.2112/1551-5036-36.sp1.96 Calvete, 2005, Morphological development of rip channel systems: normal and near normal wave incidence, J. Geophys. Res., 110, C10006, 10.1029/2004JC002803 Calvete, 2007, (Un)predictability in rip channel systems, Geophys. Res. Lett., 34, L05605, 10.1029/2006GL028162 Castelle, 2006, Modelling of a rip current induced by waves over a ridge and runnel system on the Aquitanian Coast, France, C. R. Geoscience, 338, 711, 10.1016/j.crte.2006.06.003 Castelle, 2007, Double bar beach dynamics on the high-energy meso-macrotidal French Aquitanian Coast: a review, Mar. Geol., 245, 141, 10.1016/j.margeo.2007.06.001 Castelle, 2010, Coupling mechanisms in double sandbar systems. Part 1: Patterns and physical explanation, Earth Surface Processes and Landforms, 35, 476 Castelle, 2011, Modeling formation and subsequent nonlinear evolution of rip channels: time-varying versus time-invariant wave forcing, J. Geophys. Res., 116, F04008, 10.1029/2011JF001997 Charles, E., Idier, D., Thiébot, J., Le Cozannet, G., Pedreros, R., Ardhuin, F., Planton, S., 2011. Present wave climate in the Bay of Biscay: spatiotemporal variability and trends from 1958 to 2001. J. Climate, http://dx.doi.org/10.1175/JCLI-D-11-00086.1. Coco, 2007, Patterns in the sand: from forcing templates to self-organisation, Geomorphology, 91, 271, 10.1016/j.geomorph.2007.04.023 Coco, G., Calvete, D., 2009. The use of linear stability analysis to characterize the variability of multiple sandbar systems, Proceedings of Coastal Dynamics 2009, 6th International Conference on Coastal Dynamics. Tokyo, Japan. Damgaard, 2002, Morphodynamic modelling of rip channel growth, Coast. Eng., 45, 199, 10.1016/S0378-3839(02)00034-0 Deigaard, 1999, A morphological stability analysis for a long straight barred coast, Coastal Eng., 36, 171, 10.1016/S0378-3839(99)00005-8 De Melo Apoluceno, 2002, Morphodynamics of ridge and runnel systems during summer, J. Coastal Res., Special Issue, 36, 222, 10.2112/1551-5036-36.sp1.222 Dupuis, 2006, Wave climate evolution in the bay of biscay over two decades, J. Mar. Syst., 63, 105, 10.1016/j.jmarsys.2006.05.009 Falqués, 2008, Rhythmic surf zone bars and morphodynamic self-organization, Coastal Eng., 55, 622, 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2007.11.012 Klein, 2006, Morphodynamic evolution of double-barred beaches, J. Geophys. Res., 111, C06017, 10.1029/2005JC003155 Lafon, 2004, Morphodynamics of nearshore rhythmic sandbars in a mixed-energy environment (SW France): I. Mapping beach changes using visible satellite imagery, Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science, 61, 289, 10.1016/j.ecss.2004.05.006 Lafon, 2005, Morphodynamics of nearshore rhythmic sandbars in a mixed-energy environment (SW France): 2. Physical forcing analysis, Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science, 65, 449, 10.1016/j.ecss.2005.06.011 Le Cozannet, G., Lecacheux, S., Delvallée, E., Desramaut, N., Oliveros, C., Pedreros, R., 2011. Teleconnection pattern influence in the Bay of Biscay. J. Climate, doi:10.1175/2010JCLI3589.1. MacMahan, 2006, Rip current review, Coastal Eng., 53, 191, 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2005.10.009 Parisot, 2009, Treatment of topographic and bathymetric data acquired at the Truc-Vert Beach during the ECORS Field Experiment, J. Coastal Res., SI56, 1786 Pedreros, 1996, Application of grain-size-trend analysis for the determination of sediment transport pathways in intertidal areas, Mar. Geol., 135, 35, 10.1016/S0025-3227(96)00042-4 Pirazzoli, P.A., 2007. Données pour dimensionnement des structures côtières et des ouvrages de bord de mer à longue échéance, Projet DISCOBOLE, rapport final, CNRS, laboratoire de géographie physique (UMR no 8591), Meudon, 241 p. Ruessink, 2007, Coupled and noncoupled behavior of three-dimensional morphological patterns in a double sandbar system, J. Geophys. Res., 112, 10.1029/2006JC003799 Sénéchal, 2009, Morphodynamic response of a meso- macro-tidal intermediate beach based on a long-term data set, Geomorphology, 107, 263, 10.1016/j.geomorph.2008.12.016 Smit, 2008, The morphological response of a nearshore double sandbar system to constant wave forcing, Coastal Eng., 55, 761, 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2008.02.010 Soulsby, 1997 Thiébot, 2012, The influence of wave direction on the morphological response of a double sandbar system, Continental Shelf Res., 32, 71, 10.1016/j.csr.2011.10.014 Thornton, 1983, Transformation of wave height distribution, J. Geophys. Res., 88, 5925, 10.1029/JC088iC10p05925 Thornton, 2007, Rip currents, mega-cusps, and eroding dunes, Mar. Geol., 240, 151, 10.1016/j.margeo.2007.02.018 Tiessen, 2010, A field test of a linear stability model for crescentic bars, Coastal Eng., 57, 41, 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2009.09.002 Tiessen, 2011, Development of crescentic bars for a periodically perturbated initial bathymetry, J. Geophys. Res., 116 Tolman, 1992, Effects of numerics on the physics in a third-generation wind-wave model, J. Phys. Oceanogr., 22, 1095, 10.1175/1520-0485(1992)022<1095:EONOTP>2.0.CO;2 Van Enckevort, 2003, Video observations of nearshore bar behaviour. Part 2: Alongshore non-uniform variability, Continental Shelf Res., 23, 513, 10.1016/S0278-4343(02)00235-2 Van Enckevort, 2004, Observations of nearshore crescentic sandbars, J. Geophys. Res., 109 Wright, 1984, Morphodynamic variability of beaches and surf zones, a synthesis, Mar. Geol., 56, 92, 10.1016/0025-3227(84)90008-2