How are the barriers of social sustainability perceived in a multi-tier supply chain? A case of textile and clothing industry

Mahesh Shaw1, Abhijit Majumdar1, Kannan Govindan2
1Department of Textile and Fibre Engineering, Indian Institute of Technology Delhi, New Delhi, India
2Centre for Sustainable Supply Chain Engineering, University of Southern Denmark, Odense, Denmark

Tóm tắt

Từ khóa


Tài liệu tham khảo

Arrigo E (2020) Global sourcing in fast fashion retailers: sourcing locations and sustainability considerations. Sustainability 12:508. https://doi.org/10.3390/su12020508

Awan U, Kraslawski A, Huiskonen J (2018) Governing interfirm relationships for social sustainability: The relationship between governance mechanisms, sustainable collaboration, and cultural intelligence. Sustain 10. https://doi.org/10.3390/su10124473

Bai C, Sarkis J (2013) A grey-based DEMATEL model for evaluating business process management critical success factors. Intern J Prod Econ 146:281–292. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ijpe.2013.07.011

Baskaran V, Nachiappan S, Rahman S (2012) Indian textile suppliers sustainability evaluation using the grey approach. Int J Prod Econ 135:647–658. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ijpe.2011.06.012

Bellware K (2020) Seven people died when the only escape from a fire at an indian denim factory was up a ladder. Washington Post

Bhandari N, Garza-Reyes JA, Rocha-Lona L, Kumar A, Naz F, Joshi R (2022) Barriers to sustainable sourcing in the apparel and fashion luxury industry. Sustain Prod Consum 31:220–235. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.spc.2022.02.007

Busse C, Schleper MC, Niu M, Wagner SM (2016) Supplier development for sustainability: contextual barriers in global supply chains. Int J Phys Distrib Logist Manag 46:442–468. https://doi.org/10.1108/IJPDLM-12-2015-0300

Cai YJ, Choi TM (2020) A United Nations’ Sustainable Development Goals perspective for sustainable textile and apparel supply chain management. Transp Res Part E Logist Transp Rev 141:102010. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.tre.2020.102010

Campbell JL (2007) Why would corporations behave in socially responsible ways? An institutional theory of corporate social responsibility. Acad Manag Rev 32(3):946–967. https://doi.org/10.5465/AMR.2007.25275684

Carlson LA, Bitsch V (2018) Social sustainability in the ready-made-garment sector in Bangladesh: an institutional approach to supply chains. Int Food Agribus Manag Rev 21(2):269–292. https://doi.org/10.22434/IFAMR2017.0114

Chang HJJ, Jai TMC (2015) Is fast fashion sustainable? the effect of positioning strategies on consumers’ attitudes and purchase intentions. Soc Responsib J 11(4):853–867. https://doi.org/10.1108/SRJ-07-2014-0095

Chi T (2011) Building a sustainable supply chain: an analysis of corporate social responsibility (CSR) practices in the chinese textile and apparel industry. J Text Inst 102(10):837–848. https://doi.org/10.1080/00405000.2010.524361

Christine CN, Chan PW, Sharmina M (2017) How does social sustainability feature in studies of supply chain management a review and research. Supply Chain Manag An Int J 22(6):522–541

Da Giau A, Macchion L, Caniato F, Caridi M, Danese P, Rinaldi R, Vinelli A (2016) Sustainability practices and web-based communication: an analysis of the italian fashion industry. J Fash Mark Manag 20:72–88. https://doi.org/10.1108/JFMM-07-2015-0061

Deephouse DL (1996) Does isomorphism legitimate? Acad. Manag J 39:1024–1039

Diabat A, Kannan D, Mathiyazhagan K (2014) Analysis of enablers for implementation of sustainable supply chain management - A textile case. J Clean Prod 83:391–403. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jclepro.2014.06.081

DiMaggio P, Powell WW (1983) The iron cage revisited: insttutional isomorphism and collective rationality in organizational fields. Am Soc Rev 48(2):147–160

Dou N, Jhu O, Sarkis F (2018) Green multi-tier supply chain management: an enabler investigation. J Purch Supply Manag 24(2):95–107

Ehrgott M, Reimann F, Carter CR (2011) Social sustainability in selecting emerging economy suppliers. J Bus Ethics 98(1):99–119. https://doi.org/10.1007/s10551-010-0537-7

Feng B, Hu X, Orji IJ (2021) Multi-tier supply chain sustainability in the pulp and paper industry: a framework and evaluation methodology. Int J Prod Res 1–27. https://doi.org/10.1080/00207543.2021.1890260

Freeman RE, Harrison JS, Wicks AC, Parmar B, de Colle S (2010) Stakeholder Theory: the state of the art. Cambridge Univ Press

Freise M, Seuring S (2015) Social and environmental risk management in supply chains: a survey in the clothing industry. Logist Res 8(1):1–12

Galuppo L, Gorli M, Scaratti G, Kaneklin C (2014) Building social sustainability: multi-stakeholder processes and conflict management. Soc Responsib J 10(4):685–701. https://doi.org/10.1108/SRJ-10-2012-0134

Gardas BB, Raut RD, Narkhede B (2018) Modelling the challenges to sustainability in the textile and apparel (T&A) sector: a Delphi-DEMATEL approach. Sustain Prod Consum 15:96–108. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.spc.2018.05.001

Giunipero LC, Hooker RE, Denslow D (2012) Purchasing and supply management sustainability: drivers and barriers. J Purch Supply Manag 18:258–269. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.pursup.2012.06.003

Govindan K, Shaw M, Majumdar A (2021) Social sustainability tensions in Multi-tier Supply Chain: a systematic literature review towards conceptual Framework Development. J Clean Prod 279:123075. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jclepro.2020.123075

Goworek H (2011) Social and environmental sustainability in the clothing industry: a case study of a fair trade retailer. Soc Responsib J 7:74–86

Grimm H, Hofstetter JS, Sarkis J (2016) Exploring sub-suppliers ’ compliance with corporate sustainability standards. J Clean Prod 112:1971–1984. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jclepro.2014.11.036

Hannibal C, Kauppi K (2019) Third party social sustainability assessment: is it a multi-tier supply chain solution? Int J Prod Econ 217:78–87. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ijpe.2018.08.030

Houé T, Duchamp D (2021) Relational impact of buyer – supplier dyads on sustainable purchasing and supply management: a proximity perspective. Int J Logist Manag 32(2):567–591. https://doi.org/10.1108/IJLM-10-2019-0298

Huq FA, Stevenson M (2020) Implementing socially sustainable Practices in Challenging Institutional Contexts: Building Theory from seven developing Country supplier cases. J Bus Ethics 161(2):415–442. https://doi.org/10.1007/s10551-018-3951-x

Huq FA, Stevenson M, Marta Z (2014) Social sustainability in developing country suppliers an exploratory study in the ready made garments industry of bangladesh. Int J Oper Prod Manag 34(5):610–638

Huq FA, Chowdhury IN, Klassen RD (2016) Social management capabilities of multinational buying firms and their emerging market suppliers: an exploratory study of the clothing industry. J Oper Manag 46:19–37. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jom.2016.07.005

Hussain M, Ajmal MM, Gunasekaran A, Khan M (2018) Exploration of social sustainability in healthcare supply chain. J Clean Prod 203:977–989. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jclepro.2018.08.157

Hutchins MJ, Sutherland JW (2008) An exploration of measures of social sustainability and their application to supply chain decisions. J Clean Prod 16:1688–1698. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jclepro.2008.06.001

International Labour Organization (2015) Insights into working conditions in India’s garment industry. International Labor Organization

Kannan D (2018) Role of multiple stakeholders and the critical success factor theory for the sustainable supplier selection process. Int J Prod Econ 195:391–418. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ijpe.2017.02.020

Kanyoma KE, Agbola FW, Oloruntoba R (2021) Inhibitors and enablers of supply chain integration across multiple supply chain tiers: evidence from Malawi. Int J Logist Manag 32(2):618–649. https://doi.org/10.1108/IJLM-06-2019-0161

Kelling NK, Sauer PC, Gold S, Seuring S (2021) The role of institutional uncertainty for Social sustainability of companies and supply chains. J Bus Ethics 173(4):813–833. https://doi.org/10.1007/s10551-020-04423-6

Ketokivi M, Mahoney JT (2020) Transaction cost Economics as a theory of Supply Chain Efficiency. Prod Oper Manag 29:1011–1031. https://doi.org/10.1111/poms.13148

Khan M, Ajmal M, Hussain M, Helo P (2018) Barriers to social sustainability in the healthcare industry in the UAE. Int J Organ Anal 26(3):450–469

Khan SAR, Zkik K, Belhadi A, Kamble SS (2021) Evaluating barriers and solutions for social sustainability adoption in multi-tier supply chains. Int J Prod Res 59(11):3378–3397. https://doi.org/10.1080/00207543.2021.1876271

Khurana K, Ricchetti M (2016) Two decades of sustainable supply chain management in the fashion business, an appraisal. J Fash Mark Manag 20(1):89–104. https://doi.org/10.1108/JFMM-05-2015-0040

Khurshid A, Muzaffar A, Bhutta MKS (2021) Institutional pressures and supplier involvement: a perspective on sustainability. Oper Manage Res 14(1):123–137

Klassen RD, Vereecke A (2012) Social issues in supply chains: capabilities link responsibility, risk (opportunity), and performance. Int J Prod Econ 140(1):103–115. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ijpe.2012.01.021

Köksal D, Strähle J (2021) Social Sustainability in Fashion Supply Chains—Understanding Social Standard implementation failures in Vietnam and Indonesia using Agency Theory. Sustainability 13:2159. https://doi.org/10.3390/su13042159

Köksal D, Strähle J, Müller M, Freise M (2017) Social Sustainable Supply Chain Management in the Textile and Apparel Industry — A Literature Review. Sustainability 9:1–32. https://doi.org/10.3390/su9010100

Koster M, Vos B, van der Valk W (2019) Drivers and barriers for adoption of a leading social management standard (SA8000) in developing economies. Int J Phys Distrib Logist Manag 49(5):534–551. https://doi.org/10.1108/IJPDLM-01-2018-0037

León-Bravo V, Caniato F, Caridi M (2019) Sustainability in multiple stages of the food supply chain in Italy: practices, performance and reputation. Oper Manag Res 12:40–61. https://doi.org/10.1007/s12063-018-0136-9

Li Y, Zhao X, Shi D, Li X (2014) Governance of sustainable supply chains in the fast fashion industry. Eur Manag J 32(5):823–836. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.emj.2014.03.001

Lion A, Macchion L, Danese P, Vinelli A (2016) Sustainability approaches within the fashion industry: the supplier perspective. Supply Chain Forum An Int J 17(2):95–108

Macchion L, Da Giau A, Caniato F, Caridi M, Danese P, Rinaldi R, Vinelli A (2018) Strategic approaches to sustainability in fashion supply chain management. Prod Plan Control 29(1):9–28. https://doi.org/10.1080/09537287.2017.1374485

Majumdar A, Sinha SK (2018) Modeling the barriers of green supply chain management in small and medium enterprises a case of indian clothing industry. Manag Environ Qual An Int J 29(6):1110–1122. https://doi.org/10.1108/MEQ-12-2017-0176

Majumdar A, Sinha SK (2019) Analyzing the barriers of green textile supply chain management in Southeast Asia using interpretive structural modeling. Sustain Prod Consum 17:176–187. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.spc.2018.10.005

Majumdar A, Shaw M, Sinha SK (2020) COVID-19 debunks the myth of socially sustainable supply chain: a case of the clothing industry in south asian countries. Sustain Prod Consum 24:150–155

Mani V, Gunasekaran A (2018) Four forces of supply chain social sustainability adoption in emerging economies. Int J Prod Econ 199:150–161. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ijpe.2018.02.015

Mani V, Agarwal R, Gunasekaran A, Papadopoulos T, Dubey R, Childe SJ (2016a) Social sustainability in the supply chain: construct development and measurement validation. Ecol Indic 71:270–279. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ecolind.2016a.07.007

Mani V, Agrawal R, Sharma V (2016b) Impediments to Social Sustainability Adoption in the Supply Chain: an ISM and MICMAC analysis in indian Manufacturing Industries. Glob J Flex Syst Manag 17(2):135–156. https://doi.org/10.1007/s40171-015-0106-0

Mani V, Gunasekaran A, Delgado C (2018) Enhancing supply chain performance through supplier social sustainability: an emerging economy perspective. Int J Prod Econ 195:259–272. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ijpe.2017.10.025

Maria-Ariana D (2017) Brief considerations on the Rights and Working Conditions of employees in the Textile and Clothing Industry globally and in Romania. Ann Univ Oradea Fascicle Text Leatherwork 18:177–182

Marshall D, McCarthy L, McGrath P, Claudy M (2015) Going above and beyond: how sustainability culture and entrepreneurial orientation drive social sustainability supply chain practice adoption. Supply Chain Manag Int J 20:434–454. https://doi.org/10.1108/SCM-08-2014-0267

Mathiyazhagan K, Mani V, Mathivathanan D, Rajak S (2021) Evaluation of antecedents to social sustainability practices in multi-tier indian automotive manufacturing firms. Int J Prod Res 1–22. https://doi.org/10.1080/00207543.2021.1938276

Meinlschmidt J, Schleper MC, Foerstl K (2018) Tackling the sustainability iceberg: a transaction cost economics approach to lower tier sustainability management. Int J Oper Prod Manag 38(10):1888–1914

Meixell MJ, Luoma P (2015) Stakeholder pressure in sustainable supply chain management. Int J Phys Distrib Logist Manag 45(1/2):69–89. https://doi.org/10.1108/IJPDLM-05-2013-0155

Mejías AM, Bellas R, Pardo JE, Paz E (2019) Traceability management systems and capacity building as new approaches for improving sustainability in the fashion multi-tier supply chain. Int J Prod Econ 217:143–158. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ijpe.2019.03.022

Mena C, Humphries A, Choi TY (2013) Toward a theory of Multi-tier Supply Chain Management. J Supply Chain Manag 49(2):58–77

Moktadir MA, Ali SM, Rajesh R, Paul SK (2018) Modeling the interrelationships among barriers to sustainable supply chain management in leather industry. J Clean Prod 181:631–651. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jclepro.2018.01.245

Moon KKL, Lai CSY, Lam EYN, Chang JMT (2015) Popularization of sustainable fashion: barriers and solutions. J Text Inst 106(9):939–952. https://doi.org/10.1080/00405000.2014.955293

Movahedipour M, Zeng J, Yang M, Wu X (2017) An ISM approach for the barrier analysis in implementing sustainable supply chain management: an empirical study. Manag Decis 55(8):1824–1850. https://doi.org/10.1108/MD-12-2016-0898

Munny AA, Ali SM, Kabir G, Moktadir MA, Rahman T, Mahtab Z (2019) Enablers of social sustainability in the supply chain: an example of footwear industry from an emerging economy. Sustain Prod Consum 20:230–242. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.spc.2019.07.003

Najjar M, Yasin MM (2021) The management of global multi-tier sustainable supply chains: a complexity theory perspective. Int J Prod Res 1–18. https://doi.org/10.1080/00207543.2021.1990432

Nayak R, Akbari M, Far SM (2019) Recent sustainable trends in Vietnam’s fashion supply chain. J Clean Prod 225:291–303. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jclepro.2019.03.239

Nguyen GNT, Mani V, Kha MK, Papadopoulos T (2021) Supply chain social responsibility in labour- intensive industries: a practitioner’s perspective. Prod Plan Control 1–20. https://doi.org/10.1080/09537287.2021.1925172

Oelze N (2017) Sustainable supply Chain Management implementation–enablers and barriers in the Textile Industry. Sustainability 9:1435. https://doi.org/10.3390/su9081435

Oyedijo A, Yang Y, Koukpaki ASF, Mishra N (2021) The role of fairness in multi-tier sustainable supply chains. Int J Prod Res 1–25. https://doi.org/10.1080/00207543.2021.1928319

Panigrahi SS, Nune SR (2018) A stakeholders’ perspective on barriers to adopt sustainable practices in MSME supply chain: issues and challenges in the textile sector. Res J Text Appar 22(1):59–76. https://doi.org/10.1108/RJTA-07-2017-0036

Pelletier N (2018) Social Sustainability Assessment of Canadian Egg Production Facilities: methods, analysis, and recommendations. Sustainability 1–17. https://doi.org/10.3390/su10051601

Pelletier N, Ustaoglu E, Benoit C, Norris G, Rosenbaum E, Vasta A, Sala S (2018) Social sustainability in trade and development policy. Int J Life Cycle Assess 23(3):629. https://doi.org/10.1007/s11367-016-1059-z

Perry P, Towers N (2013) Conceptual framework development: CSR implementation in fashion supply chains. Int J Phys Distrib Logist Manag 43:478–501. https://doi.org/10.1108/IJPDLM-03-2012-0107

Peters J, Simaens A (2020) Integrating sustainability into corporate strategy: a case study of the Textile and Clothing Industry. Sustainability 12:6125. https://doi.org/10.3390/su12156125

Russell M (2018) Mordern slavery uncovered in India’sgarment sector [WWW Document]. just-Style. URL https://www.just-style.com/news/modern-slavery-uncovered-in-indias-garment-sector_id132719.aspx (accessed 6.15.20)

Sancha C, Longoni A, Giménez C (2015) Sustainable supplier development practices: drivers and enablers in a global context. J Purch Supply Manag 21(2):95–102. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.pursup.2014.12.004

Sarkis J, Helms MM, Hervani AA (2010) Reverse logistics and social sustainability. Corp Soc – Responsib Environ Manag 17(6):337–354

Sauer PC, Seuring S (2018) A three-dimensional framework for multi-tier sustainable supply chain management. Supply Chain Manag Int J 23:560–572. https://doi.org/10.1108/SCM-06-2018-0233

Sauer PC, Seuring S (2019) Extending the reach of multi-tier sustainable supply chain management – insights from mineral supply chains. Int J Prod Econ 217:31–43. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ijpe.2018.05.030

Schulze H, Bals L, Warwick J (2022) A sustainable sourcing competence model for purchasing and supply management professionals. Oper Manage Res 7:1–27

Sendlhofer T, Lernborg CM (2018) Labour rights training 2.0: The digitalisation of knowledge for workers in global supply chains. J Clean Prod 179:616–630. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jclepro.2017.12.173

Seuring S, Muller M (2008) From a literature review to a conceptual framework for sustainable supply chain management. J Clean Prod 16:1699–1710

Sharma V, Raj A, Chakraborty A (2022) Analysis of power dynamics in sustainable supply chain under non-linear demand setup. Oper Manage Res, 1–15

Shaw M, Majumdar A, Govindan K (2022) Barriers of social sustainability: an improved interpretive structural model of indian textile and clothing supply chain. Sustain Dev 30(6):1616–1633. https://doi.org/10.1002/sd.2331

Shen L, Govindan K, Shankar M (2015) Evaluation of barriers of corporate social responsibility using an Analytical Hierarchy process under a fuzzy Environment—A. Text Case Sustain 7:3493–3514. https://doi.org/10.3390/su7033493

Si S, You X, Liu H, Zhang P (2018) DEMATEL technique: a systematic review of the state-of-the-art literature on methodologies and applications. Math Probl Eng 1–33. https://doi.org/10.1155/2018/3696457

Silva ME, Dias GP, Gold S (2021) Exploring the roles of lead organisations in spreading sustainability standards throughout food supply chains in an emerging economy. Int J Logist Manag 32:1030–1049. https://doi.org/10.1108/IJLM-05-2020-0201

Sodhi MS, Tang CS (2018) Corporate social sustainability in supply chains: a thematic analysis of the literature. Int J Prod Res 56(1/2):882–901. https://doi.org/10.1080/00207543.2017.1388934

Soundararajan V, Brammer S (2018) Developing country sub-supplier responses to social sustainability requirements of intermediaries: exploring the influence of framing on fairness perceptions and reciprocity. J Oper Manag 58:42–58. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jom.2018.04.001

Soundararajan V, Brown JA, Wicks AC (2019) Can Multi-Stakeholder Initiatives Improve Global Supply Chains? Improving deliberative capacity with a stakeholder orientation. Bus Ethics Q 29(3):385–412. https://doi.org/10.1017/beq.2018.38

Sroufe R, Gopalakrishna-Remani V (2019) Management, Social sustainability, reputation, and Financial Performance Relationships: an empirical examination of U.S. firms. Organ Environ 32(3):331–362. https://doi.org/10.1177/1086026618756611

Stock T, Obenaus M, Kunz S, Kohl H (2018) Industry 4.0 as enabler for a sustainable development: a qualitative assessment of its ecological and social potential. Process Saf Environ Prot 118:254–267. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.psep.2018.06.026

Suchman MC (1995) Managing legitimacy: strategic and institutional approaches. Acad Manag Rev 20(3):571–610

Tachizawa EM, Wong CY (2014) Towards a theory of multi-tier sustainable supply chains: a systematic literature review. Supply Chain Manag 19(5/6):643–653. https://doi.org/10.1108/SCM-02-2014-0070

Tumpa TJ, Ali SM, Rahman MdH, Paul SK, Chowdhury P, Rehman Khan SA (2019) Barriers to green supply chain management: an emerging economy context. J Clean Prod 236:117617. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jclepro.2019.117617

Uttam N, Dutta P, Singh A (2022) Micro, small, and medium suppliers’ perspectives on supply chain social sustainability: new evidence from India. J Clean Prod 379:134473. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jclepro.2022.134473

Valmohammadi C (2011) Investigating corporate social responsibility practices in iranian organizations: an ISO 26000 perspective. Bus Strateg Ser 12(5):257–263. https://doi.org/10.1108/17515631111166898

Venkatesh VG, Zhang A, Deakins E, Mani V (2021) Antecedents of social sustainability noncompliance in the indian apparel sector. Int J Prod Econ 234:108038. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ijpe.2021.108038

Walker H, Jones N (2012) Sustainable supply chain management across the UK private sector. Supply Chain Manag. An Int J 17(1):15–28

Wang-Mlynek L, Foerstl K (2020) Barriers to multi-tier supply chain risk management. Int J Logist Manag 31:465–487

Wilhelm M, Blome C, Wieck E, Xiao CY (2016) Implementing sustainability in multi-tier supply chains: strategies and contingencies in managing sub-suppliers. Int J Prod Econ 182:196–212. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ijpe.2016.08.006

Yazdani M, Pamucar D, Chatterjee P, Torkayesh AE (2021) A multi-tier sustainable food supplier selection model under uncertainty. Oper Manage Res 1–30

Yu X (2008) Impacts of Corporate Code of Conduct on Labor Standards: a case study of Reebok ’ s athletic footwear supplier factory in China. J Bus Ethics 81(3):513–529. https://doi.org/10.1007/s10551-007-9521-2

Zayed EO, Yaseen EA (2021) Barriers to sustainable supply chain management implementation in egyptian industries: an interpretive structural modeling (ISM) approach. Manag Environ Qual 32:1192–1209. https://doi.org/10.1108/MEQ-12-2019-0271

Zorzini M, Hendry LC, Huq FA, Stevenson M (2015) Socially responsible sourcing: reviewing the literature and its use of theory. Int J Oper Prod Manag 35(1):60–109