Characterization and process optimization of indigo dyed cotton denim garments by enzymatic wash

Fashion and Textiles
Ibrahim H. Mondal1, Mohammed Abdullah Khan1
1Polymer & Textile Research Lab., Department of Applied Chemistry & Chemical Engineering, Rajshahi University, Rajshahi, 6205, Bangledesh

Tóm tắt

AbstractDenim garment was treated with cellulase enzyme by varying the process parameters, namely concentration of enzyme, washing temperature and time to develop novel design and fashion. The effect of process parameters on the physical and mechanical properties of cotton denim garment was investigated and denim fabric properties like tensile strength, elongation at break, weight loss, stiffness, water absorption, shrinkage, color fading and morphological values by SEM were discussed. To obtain the desired fashion effect in terms of color fading, comfort ability in terms of reducing the stiffness of denim and high wear performance in terms of longevity/minimum tensile strength losses of denim, indigo dyed denim garment (trousers, 100% cotton with twill weave 3/1 construction) had been chosen and processed with the enzyme concentration of 0.5% to 3.5%, treatment temperature from 40°C to 70°C and treatment time from 20 min to 60 min. The process parameters were optimized and the optimized washing condition for the best value is 2% enzyme concentration at 55°C for 40 min.

Từ khóa


Tài liệu tham khảo

Colorfastness to laundering, home and commercial: accelerated. American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists. 2010, Research Triangle Park, N.C., USA

Dimensional changes in commercial laundering of woven and knitted fabrics except wool. American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists. 2009, Research Triangle Park, N.C., USA

Standard practice for conditioning textiles for testing. American Society for Testing and Materials, Annual Book of ASTM Standards, Vol.07.01. 2008, ASTM International, West Conshohocken, PA, USA

Table of commercial moisture regains for textile fibers. American Society for Testing and Materials, Annual Book of ASTM Standards, Vol.07.01. 2004, ASTM International, West Conshohocken, PA, USA

Standard test methods for mass per unit area (weight) of woven fabric. American Society for Testing and Materials, Annual book of ASTM Standards, Vol. 07.02. 1996, ASTM International, West Conshohocken, PA, USA

Standard test method for breaking force and elongation of textile fabrics (Grab test). American Society for Testing and Materials, Annual book of ASTM Standards, Vol. 07.01. 2009, ASTM International, West Conshohocken, PA, USA

Betrabet SM, Paralikar KM, Patil NB: Effect of cellulase on the morphology and fine structure of cellulose substrates. Cellulose Chemistry and Technology. 1980, 14: 811-820.

Method for determination of bending length and flexural rigidity of fabrics. 1990, BSI Publisher, Chiswick High Road, London

Testing the resistance of fabrics to water absorption (static immersion test). 1990, BSI Publisher, Chiswick High Road, London

Buchert J, Heikinheimo L: New cellulase processes for the textile industry. EU-Project Report. Carbohydr Eur. 1998, 22: 32-34.

Butler SM, Francis S: The Effects of Environmental Attitudes on Apparel Purchasing Behavior. Clothing and Textile Research Journal. 1997, 15: 76-85. 10.1177/0887302X9701500202.

Cookson PG: Relationships between hygral expansion, relaxation shrinkage, and extensibility in woven wool fabrics. Textile Research Journal. 1992, 62: 44-

Duran N, Mercela N: Enzyme applications in the textile industry. Review Progress in Coloration. 2000, 30 (1): 41-44. 10.1111/j.1478-4408.2000.tb03779.x.

Eckman M: Attractiveness of Men’s Suits: The Effect of Aesthetic Attributes and Consumer Characteristics. Clothing and Textile Research Journal. 1997, 15: 193-202. 10.1177/0887302X9701500401.

Gam HJ, Banning JJ: Addressing Sustainable Apparel Design Challenges With Problem-Based Learning. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal. 2011, 29: 202-215. 10.1177/0887302X11414874.

Grieve M, Biermann T, Schaub K: The use of indigo derivatives to dye denim material. Science & Justice. 2006, 46: 15-24. 10.1016/S1355-0306(06)71563-5.

Grieve M, Biermann T: The population of colored textile fiber on outdoor surfaces. Science & Justice. 1997, 37: 231-239. 10.1016/S1355-0306(97)72196-8.

Heikinheimo L, Buchert J, Miettinen-oinonen A, Suominen P: Treating denim fabrics with trichoderma reesei cellulases. Textile Research Journal. 2000, 70 (11): 969-973. 10.1177/004051750007001106.

Heikinheimo L, Cavaco-Paulo A, Nousiainen P, Siika-aho M, Buchert J: Treatment of cotton fabrics with purified trichoderma reesei cellulases. Journal of the Society of Dyers and Colourists. 1998, 114 (7–8): 216-220.

Islam MT: Garments washing & dyeing. 2010, Ananto publications, Dhaka, 1

Kang I, Yang C, Wei W, Lickfield GC: Mechanical strength of durable press finished cotton fabrics. Part 1: Effects of acid degradation and cross linking of cellulose by polycarboxylic acids. Textile Research Journal. 1998, 68: 856-870. 10.1177/004051759806801112.

Kashem MA: Garments Merchandising. 2008, Lucky-one traders, Dhaka, 1

Kawamura H, Wakida T: Application of enzymes in textile finishing. Bull Apparel Sci Res Cent. 1989, 8: 99-Kyoto Institute of Technology, Japan

Kleman-Leyer KM, Siika-aho M, Teeri T, Kirt TK: The cellulases endoglucanase I and cellobiohydrolase II of trichoderma reesei act synergistically to solubilize native cotton cellulose but not to decrease its molecular size. Applied and Environmental Microbiology. 1996, 62 (8): 2883-2887.

Kochavi D, Videbaek T, Cadroni D: Optimizing processing conditions in enzymatic stone washing. American Dyestuff Reporter. 1990, 9: 24-28.

Koo H, Ueda M, Wakida T, Yoshimura Y, Igarashi T: Cellulase treatment of cotton fabrics. Textile Research Journal. 1994, 64 (2): 70-74. 10.1177/004051759406400202.

Kwon YA, Sarmadi AM: Wettability of Nonwoven Fabrics: Effect of Laundering on Water Absorption. Clothing and Textiles Research J. 1995, 13: 17-29. 10.1177/0887302X9501300103.

Li Y, Hardin I: Treating cotton with cellulases and pectinases: Effects on cuticle and fiber properties. Textile Research Journal. 1998, 68 (9): 671-679. 10.1177/004051759806800908.

Morries CE, Harper RJ: Comprehensive view on garment dyeing and finishing. American Dyestuff Reporter. 1994, 83: 132-136.

Prabaharan M, Nayar RC, Rao JV: Process Optimization in Peracetic Acid Bleaching of Cotton. Textile Research Journal. 2000, 70 (8): 657-661. 10.1177/004051750007000801.

Razzaque MA: Garment & Textile Merchandising. 2004, Popular publications, Dhaka, 1

Tyndall M: Upgrading garment washing techniques. American Dyestuff Reporter. 1990, 5: 22-30.

Tyndall RM: Improving the softness and surface appearance of cotton fabrics and garments by treatment with cellulase enzymes. Textile Chemist and Colourist. 1992, 24: 23-26.

Walker LP, Wilson DB: Enzymatic hydrolysis of cellulose: An overview. Bioresource Technology. 1991, 36: 3-14. 10.1016/0960-8524(91)90095-2.

Wood TM: Fungal Cellulases. Biochemical Society Transactions. 1992, 20: 46-52.

Thông tin
Thông tin xuất bản

Fashion and Textiles

Thông tin tác giả