Run-Up of a Nonlinear Monochromatic Wave on a Plane Beach in Presence of a Tide

Pleiades Publishing Ltd - Tập 59 - Trang 478-481 - 2019
I. I. Didenkulova1,2, E. N. Pelinovsky2,3,4,5
1Department of Marine Systems, Tallinn University of Technology, Tallinn, Estonia
2Nizhny Novgorod State Technical University n.a. R.E. Alekseev, Nizhny Novgorod, Russia
3Institute of Applied Physics, Russian Academy of Sciences, Nizhny Novgorod, Russia
4National Research University, Higher School of Economics, Moscow, Russia
5Special Research Bureau for Automation of Marine Researches, Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk, Russia

Tóm tắt

Abstract—The nonlinear problem of run-up of a long wave on a plane beach in presence of a tide is solved within nonlinear shallow water theory using the Carrier–Greenspan approach. An exact solution to the nonlinear problem for the wave run-up height is found as a function of the incident wave amplitude. The influence of the tide on the characteristics of wave run-up on a beach is studied.

Tài liệu tham khảo

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