Double bar beach dynamics on the high-energy meso-macrotidal French Aquitanian Coast: A review

Aagaard, 1991, Multiple-bar morphodynamics and its relation to low frequency edge waves, J. Coastal Res., 7, 810 Aagaard, 1997, Mean currents and sediment transport in a rip channel, Mar. Geol., 140, 25, 10.1016/S0025-3227(97)00025-X Abadie, 2005, Paramètres statiqtiques de la houle directionnelle au large de la côte sud aquitaine. C.R, Geoscience, 337, 769, 10.1016/j.crte.2005.03.012 Abadie, 2006, Wave climate and longshore drift on the South Aquitaine coast, Cont. Shelf Res., 26, 1924, 10.1016/j.csr.2006.06.005 Anthony, 1998, Sediment-wave parametric characterization of beaches, J. Coast. Res., 14, 347 Aubié, 2000, Coastal erosion, processs and rate : an historical study of the Gironde coastline, Southwestern France, J. Coast. Res., 16, 756 Bauer, 1988, Surf-zone similarity, Geogr. Rev., 78, 137, 10.2307/214172 Bonneton, N., Bonneton, P., Senechal, N., Castelle, B., 2007. Very low fre-quency rip current pulsations during high-energy wave conditions on a meso-macro tidal beach. In : Proc. 30th Int. Conf. on Coastal Eng. Bonneton, 2001, Transformation of irregular waves in the inner surf zone, vol. 1, 745 Bonneton, 2004, Wave transformation and energy dissipation in the surf zone: Comparison between a non-linear model and field data, J. Coastal Res. SI, 39, 329 Bowen, 1971, Edge waves and crescentic bar, J. Geophys. Res., 76, 8662, 10.1029/JC076i036p08662 Brander, 1999, Field observations on the morphodynamic evolution of low-energy rip current system, Mar. Geol., 157, 199, 10.1016/S0025-3227(98)00152-2 Brander, 2000, Morphodynamics of a large-scale rip current system at Muriwai Beach, New Zealand, Mar. Geol., 165, 27, 10.1016/S0025-3227(00)00004-9 Butel, 2000 Butel, 2002, Spatial variability of wave conditions on the French Aquitanian coast using in-situ data, J. Coastal Res. SI, 36, 96, 10.2112/1551-5036-36.sp1.96 Calvete, 2005, Development of rip channel systems: normal and near normal wave incidence, J. Geophys. Res., 110, C10006, 10.1029/2004JC002803 Castelle, B., 2004. Modélisation de l’hydrodynamique sédimentaire au-dessus des barres sableuses soumises à l’action de la houle : application à la côte aquitaine. Ph.D. thesis, University Bordeaux I, in French, unpublished, 340p. Castelle, 2004, Nearshore waves and currents over crescentic bars, J. Coast. Res. SI, 39, 687 Castelle, 2006, Modeling of a rip current induced by waves over a ridge and runnel system on the Aquitanian Coast, France, C.R. Geosciences, 338, 711, 10.1016/j.crte.2006.06.003 Castelle, B., Bonneton, P., Butel, R., Dupuis, H., 2005. Nearshore modeling of nearshore crescentic bar dissymetry on an open coast, france. In : Proceeding of Coastal Dynamics ’05, [CD-ROM], Barcelona, Spain. Castelle, 2006, Modeling of crescentic pattern development of nearshore bars: Aquitanian coast, france, C.R. Geosciences, 338, 795, 10.1016/j.crte.2006.06.007 Castelle, 2006, Dynamics of wave-induced currents over a multiple-barred sandy beach on the Aquitanian Coast, Cont. Shelf Res., 26, 113, 10.1016/j.csr.2005.08.027 Castelle, 2007, Impact of storms on beach erosion: Broadbeach (Gold Coast, Australia), J. Coast. Res., SI 50, 534 Cayocca, 2001, Long-term morphological modeling of a tidal inlet: the Arcachon Basin, France, Coast. Eng., 42, 115, 10.1016/S0378-3839(00)00053-3 Certain, 2005, Conceptual modeling of sand bars morpho-dynamics for a microtidal beach (Sètes, France), Bull. Soc. géol. Fr., 176, 343, 10.2113/176.4.343 Damgaard, 2002, Morphodynamic modeling of rip channel growth, Coast. Eng., 45, 199, 10.1016/S0378-3839(02)00034-0 De Melo Apoluceno, D., 2003. Morpho-hydrodynamique des plages à barres en domaine méso macro-tidal : exemple de la plage du Truc Vert, Gironde, France. Ph.D. thesis, Université Bordeaux I, in French, unpublished. De Melo Apoluceno, 2002, Morphody-namics of ridge and runnel systems during summer, J. Coastal Res. SI, 36, 222, 10.2112/1551-5036-36.sp1.222 Deigaard, 1999, A morphological stability analysis for a long straight barred coast, Coast. Eng., 36, 177, 10.1016/S0378-3839(99)00005-8 Dolan, 1985, Crescentic coastal landforms, Z. Geomorphol., 18, 1 Drake, 2001, Discrete particle model for sheet flow sedi-ment transport in the nearshore, J. Geophys. Res., 106, 19859, 10.1029/2000JC000611 Dronen, 2007, Quasi-three-dimensionnal modelling of the morphology of longshore bars, Coast. Eng., 54, 197, 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2006.08.011 Dupuis, 2006, Wave climate evolution in the bay of biscay over two decades, J. Mar. Syst., 63, 105, 10.1016/j.jmarsys.2006.05.009 Elgar, 2001, Nearshore sandbar migration, J. Geophys. Res., 106, 11623, 10.1029/2000JC000389 Falquès, 1996, Bed-flow instability of the long-shore current, Cont. Shelf Res., 16, 1927, 10.1016/0278-4343(96)00031-3 Falquès, 2000, A mechanism for the generation of wave-driven rhythmic patterns in the surf zone, J. Geophys. Res., 105, 24071, 10.1029/2000JC900100 Froidefond, 1990, Spatial variation in sinusoidal on a crescentic nearshore bar: application to the Cap Ferret Coast, J. Coastal Res., 6, 927 Hoefel, 2003, Wave-induced sediment transport and sandbar migration, Science, 299, 1885, 10.1126/science.1081448 Howa, 1994, Application of a fluorescent grain detector/counter for sand transport evaluation in the littoral zone, vol. 3, 254 King, 1972 Lafon, 2002, Determining ridge and runnel longshore migration rate using spot imagery, Oceanologica Acta, 25, 149, 10.1016/S0399-1784(02)01190-8 Lafon, 2004, Morphodynamics of nearshore rhythmic sandbars in a mixed-energy environment (Sw France):i. mapping beach changes using visible satellite imagery, Estuar. Coast. Shelf Sci., 61, 289, 10.1016/j.ecss.2004.05.006 Lafon, 2005, Rhythmic sub-tidal and inter-tidal bar morphology and dynamics in a mixed-energy environment. part II: physical forcing analysis, Estuar. Coast. Shelf Sci., 65, 449, 10.1016/j.ecss.2005.06.011 Lippmann, 1990, The spatial and temporal variability of sand bar morphology, J. Coast. Res., 95, 575 Masselink, 1993, The effect of tide range on beach morpho-dynamics and morphology: a conceptual model, J. Coast. Res., 9, 785 Michel, 1994, Morphological evolution of a littoral sand bank, modelisation of its dynamics, 12, 240 Michel, 1999, Short-term morphodynamic response of a ridge and runnel system on a mesotidal sandy beach, J. Coast. Res., 15, 428 Michel, 1995, Essai de modélisation de l’évolution morphologique d’un banc sableux intertidal (sud du Bassin d’Arcachon, France), C.R.A.S., 321, 497 Nafaa, 1993, Beach and nearshore features along the dissipative coastline of the nile delta, J. Coastal Res., 9, 423 Pedreros, R., 2000. Quantification et modisation du transport éolien au niveau des zones côtières-application au littoral aquitain. Ph.D. thesis, University Bordeaux I, in French, unpublished. Pedreros, 1996, Application of grain-size-trend analysis for the determination of sediment transport pathways in intertidal areas, Mar. Geol., 135, 35, 10.1016/S0025-3227(96)00042-4 Ranasinghe, 2004, Morphodynamics of intermediate beaches: a video imaging and numerical modelling study, Coast. Eng., 51, 629, 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2004.07.018 Reniers, 2004, Morphodynamic modeling of an embayed beach under wave group forcing, J. Geophys. Res., 109, C01030, 10.1029/2002JC001586 Ribas, 2003, Nearshore oblique sand bars, J. Geophys. Res., 108, 3119, 10.1029/2001JC000985 Ruessink, 1994, The behavior of a multiple bar system in the nearshore zone of terschelling, the netherlands, Mar. Geol., 21, 187, 10.1016/0025-3227(94)90030-2 Ruessink, 2000, The behaviour of nearshore bars on the time scale of years: a conceptual model, Mar. Geol., 163, 289, 10.1016/S0025-3227(99)00094-8 Ruessink, B.G., Coco, G., Ranasinghe, R., Turner, I.L., 2006. A cross-wavelet study of alongshore nonuniform nearshore sandbar behavior. In : Proc. of the 2006 International Joint Conference on neural networks [DVD-ROM], Vancouver, Canada. pp. 8743–8750. Ruessink, 2007, Coupled and noncoupled behavior of three-dimensional morphological patterns in a double sandbar system, J. Geophys. Res., 112, C07002, 10.1029/2006JC003799 Sallenger, 1985, Storm-induced response of a nearshore-bar system, Mar. Geol., 64, 237, 10.1016/0025-3227(85)90107-0 Shepard, 1952, Revised nomenclature for depositional coastal features, Bull. Am. Assoc. Petrol. Geol., 36, 1902 Short, 1979, Three-dimensional beach-stage model, Journal of Geology, 87, 553, 10.1086/628445 Short, 1991, Meso-macro tidal beach morphodynamics—an overview, J. Coast. Res., 7, 417 Short, 1992, Beach systems of the central netherlands coast: processes, morphology and structural impacts in a storm driven multi-bar system, Mar. Geol., 107, 103, 10.1016/0025-3227(92)90071-O Short, 1999 Short, 1993, Single and multi-bar beach change models, J. Coast. Res. SI, 15, 141 Sénéchal, 2002, Field experiment on secondary wave generation on a sbarred beach and the consequent evolution of energy dissipation on the beach face, Coast. Eng., 46, 233, 10.1016/S0378-3839(02)00095-9 Sénéchal, 2001, Observation of wave transformation in the surf zone over a gently sloping beach, Oceanologica Acta, 24, 545, 10.1016/S0399-1784(01)01171-9 Sénéchal, 2003, Preliminary hydrodynamic results of a field experiment on a barred beach, truc vert beach on October, Ocean Dynamics, 54, 408 Sonu, 1973, Three-dimensional beach changes, J. Geology, 81, 42, 10.1086/627806 Thornton, 2007, Rip currents, mega-cusps, and eroding dunes, Mar. Geol., 240, 151, 10.1016/j.margeo.2007.02.018 Van Enckevort, 2003, Video observations of nearshore bar behaviour. Part 2: alongshore non-uniform varaibility, Cont. Shelf Res., 23, 513, 10.1016/S0278-4343(02)00235-2 Van Enckevort, 2004, Observations of nearshore crescentic sandbars, J. Geophys. Res., 109, C06028, 10.1029/2003JC002214 Wright, 1984, Morphodynamic variability of surf zone and beaches: a synthesis, Mar. Geol., 56, 93, 10.1016/0025-3227(84)90008-2 Wright, 1985, Short term changes in the morphodynamic of beaches and surf zones: an empirical predictive model, Mar. Geol., 62, 339, 10.1016/0025-3227(85)90123-9